Ooh, there’s nothing quite like a bowl of soup as the nights begin to draw in again, is there? Something warming and comforting you can prepare in advance (maybe on a batch-cooking weekend), ready to stir briefly over the hob, serving it up with a side of crusty bread and lashings of butter.
In a world of fancy soups and spice, we think there’s solace to be found in the simple pleasure of tradition. Like this pea and ham soup. No frills, just a hearty, affordable broth with bags of flavour.
Soups made with dried peas (pease pottage) have been around since at least the Middle Ages, with salted pork added when family supplies would allow, bringing depth and richness to what would have been a rather bland, but wholesome, meal. Later in history there was London Particular – named for the city’s infamously dense gunge-coloured fogs. It was cooked until so thick you could stand a spoon in it.
This recipe takes a bit of time. An ideal weekend project.
Ingredients (serves 4-6)
- 250g split green peas, soaked overnight with 1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
- 1 750g-1kg meaty ham hock or gammon on the bone
- 1 onion, studded with 6-8 cloves
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tsp peppercorns
- 1 onion
- 2 carrots
- 1 stick celery
- ¼ tsp ground nutmeg
- Seasoning
- Oil for cooking
Method
1. Place the ham hock in a large pan or stock pot and cover with 2lts cold water. Add the onion studded with cloves, bay leaves and peppercorns. Bring to the boil, then turn the heat down and simmer for 2-3 hours. Skim away any froth from the top, and strain the liquid into a bowl. Shred the meat and set aside.
2. Finely chop the other onion, carrots and celery. Saute in a large pan on a medium heat until softened. Add the split peas and 200ml water. Bring to the boil and heat until almost all the water has evaporated. This will help to soften the peas – introducing the salty ham stock too early can stop them breaking down as easily.
3. Now add the reserved ham stock and nutmeg. Bring to the boil, then simmer for two hours, until the peas are really soft. Either crush with the back of a fork or blitz in a blender to the texture you like. Flake in the shredded ham and taste – add a little seasoning if needed.
